The Holidays Upon Us

Greetings All! We're past Thanksgiving and well on our way to Christmas but the El Salvadorans are well ahead of us - they decorated all the traffic circles (redondos) the day after Halloween! We threw a well attended cocktail party the day before Thanksgiving, our first bash and we all had a great time. Our friends Woody and Gussie left their 'lil Corgie Maisy (rhymes with daisy) with us to dog sit for the weekend. She is a quiet, gentle creature and we had a load of fun with her.

Cool Corgie Maisy          
DON'T FORGET TO CLICK ON THE PIX

Sunday we took a road trip to Volcan National Park, also known as Cerro Verde, to climb volcan Izalco. We met our guide Patricia and our Tourist Police escort Qunitanilla and set off down the path... 400 meters down then another 600 meters up to the cone (truth in advertising, Kathleen made the hike up, Mark's knee is shot and he elected not to press his luck on the volcanic scree). Then 400 meters back to the trail head - everyone was tuckered out at the end.
Patricia on Izalco
 

Izalco volcano - still steaming. 

Izalco is one of the youngest volcanoes in the world - it didn't even form itself until 1770.

This is the view from the top.  That pointy peak in the distance is San Salvador volcano - which is right near us in San Salvador.

 

The hike was not relaxed - in order to hike here, you have to have security and they get off the trail at 4 each day - so there's no lollygaggin around looking at the scenery.  So we rushed down, rushed up, rushed back down - all kinda punishing for these 50-year old knees and thighs, especially on the loose volcanic rock.

We visited lovely Lake Coatepeque the Sunday after Thanksgiving.  It's most lovely from afar.  The truth is, you can't really get close as all the private homes around the lake have essentially walled off the place.  Here's a lovely picture from above, up on the volcano nearby.  Looks like Tahoe if you squint a lot.

Flooding & the 234th Marine Corps Birthday Ball - and MOTHRA!!!

We've had lots of inquiries and we are safe and mostly dry. The papers are reporting 61 deaths in San Salvador and 90+ country-wide due to the flooding, thanks for checking in on us.

We went to the Marine Corps birthday ball last night, a black tie event that takes place around the world and drew about 300 people.

We got dressed up! And took a self-portrait!

We have sliding glass doors all around the apartment, and no screens.  Mostly this is lovely for breezes and great views.  Sometimes, visitors enter.  One day a bird, last Friday night -- MOTHRA!!  This guy is about 4 inches across, and when Mark shooed him out of the apartment, he looked like a bat!

Click on the photo to see the beauty.  And hugeness.

Wednesday is Veteran's Day, the embassy is closed, and we are getting screens installed that day. Whew!  Just in time for my scaredy-cat bug phobia, I've just about had it with birds and bugs and mothra in the apt...

Weekend in Antigua, Guatemala

We took our first driving road trip this past weekend, to Antigua, Guatemala with our friends Woody and Gussie and their 3 great kids. A truly nice family to hang out with in a foreign city.

The Woody and Gussie Show

Two cars, walkie talkies, many adventures later,  we arrived safely, and in time to have dinner at the coolest place in town - the Convento de Santo Domingo.  In a massive thunderous storm, in a spooky dark monastery, unheated, scary, glass coffins with skeletons inside (catacombs but - not.) --- a perfect way to spend Halloween night! If you are interested, here it is: Casa Santo Domingo

But enough about luxury hotels.  The next day was Sunday, Nov. 1, Dia de los dead souls, and we drove  up to a small town called Sumpango.  WOW.  Were we lucky to discover this amazing, spectacular place the one day of the year they show off their kites which are 5 stories high.

It is too beautiful to describe.  Take a look. Click on any picture and it will fill your screen - try it, you will not be disappointed!

The crowd and the kites from afar.

 Close up of my favorite. Isn't it just amazing? The theme is - protect the identity of the country.

But here are some more!

 

 The above is all about domestic violence.

 This one, above, is about saving Mother Earth.

 

Some of the lovely Guatemalans who attended the Sumpango Fair.  We were so fortunate to make it there, the one day this event happens!

 

Simply awesome, in the truest sense of the word. The kites are meant to communicate with the dead.  They used to fly these monsters but these days they are erected and gaped at by people from all over Guatemala. Including campesinos in their Sunday best - a beautiful sight in itself.

It was a unique and memorable event.

Antigua was charming and lovely.  Touristy but wonderful.  Our trip home was eventful in all the worst ways.  A few wrong turns in Guatemala City, fog, storms, and a fallen tree which stopped traffic in both directions for about an hour and a half.  We got back well after dark, which was not our plan at all. Next time, we will make sure that it doesn't rain and a tree doesn't block our path.

Love from Mark and Kathleen

Sunday afternoon in El Salvador

This past Sunday we visited a spectacular place only 35 minutes outside the city.  A gorgeous rustic restaurant with views of the volcanoes, and the fog rolling over the hills, flowers, birds.  It was a birthday party for some new friends, Lori and Pedro.  Live music, charming people - a great way to spend an afternoon.  El Mirador de la Giralda. http://www.elmiradordelagiralda.com/

Mark has been working hard with back to back meetings out of town, so it was good to have a relaxing afternoon.

Here's Lori and Pedro, and their friends.

Road Trip 2

Mark: We're visiting Tapachula, Chiapas, Mexico for my job this week and learning some interesting things about border crossings.  Check out the rafts on the river going between Guatemala and Mexico as seen from the official point of entry.

Kathleen: Chiapas is far more urban and populated than I expected, I think because it is a border state.  Mark's conference is interesting because they were so comfortable admitting that they have casual informal border crossings with Guatemala that have been in place for generations.  So trying to force people to use the official border bridge, and to stop rafting across when they've been doing it for generations....not so much.  Rustic hotel, lovely downpours every night, Mexican food including spice and flavor - can't ask for much more in life.  I looked for signs of Zapatista involvement, but saw nothing but what I see all over Mexico - lovely people living in crushing poverty.

View From Our Balcony

click on photo

Earthquake!

Mark: very exciting, our first "noticable" terremoto last night; woke us both up, we looked at each other and said "earthquake" in unison. Lasted about 10 seconds, our big 'ol bed shakin' to beat the band. It was reported on the news and in the local papers but apparently not a big deal since the city's been clobbered with really big ones three times in 25 years. Still... follow the link below for further on earthquakes and some El Salvador-specific data. http://nasadaacs.eos.nasa.gov/articles/2006/2006_hotspots.html