The Holidays Upon Us

Greetings All! We're past Thanksgiving and well on our way to Christmas but the El Salvadorans are well ahead of us - they decorated all the traffic circles (redondos) the day after Halloween! We threw a well attended cocktail party the day before Thanksgiving, our first bash and we all had a great time. Our friends Woody and Gussie left their 'lil Corgie Maisy (rhymes with daisy) with us to dog sit for the weekend. She is a quiet, gentle creature and we had a load of fun with her.

Cool Corgie Maisy          
DON'T FORGET TO CLICK ON THE PIX

Sunday we took a road trip to Volcan National Park, also known as Cerro Verde, to climb volcan Izalco. We met our guide Patricia and our Tourist Police escort Qunitanilla and set off down the path... 400 meters down then another 600 meters up to the cone (truth in advertising, Kathleen made the hike up, Mark's knee is shot and he elected not to press his luck on the volcanic scree). Then 400 meters back to the trail head - everyone was tuckered out at the end.
Patricia on Izalco
 

Izalco volcano - still steaming. 

Izalco is one of the youngest volcanoes in the world - it didn't even form itself until 1770.

This is the view from the top.  That pointy peak in the distance is San Salvador volcano - which is right near us in San Salvador.

 

The hike was not relaxed - in order to hike here, you have to have security and they get off the trail at 4 each day - so there's no lollygaggin around looking at the scenery.  So we rushed down, rushed up, rushed back down - all kinda punishing for these 50-year old knees and thighs, especially on the loose volcanic rock.

We visited lovely Lake Coatepeque the Sunday after Thanksgiving.  It's most lovely from afar.  The truth is, you can't really get close as all the private homes around the lake have essentially walled off the place.  Here's a lovely picture from above, up on the volcano nearby.  Looks like Tahoe if you squint a lot.

Flooding & the 234th Marine Corps Birthday Ball - and MOTHRA!!!

We've had lots of inquiries and we are safe and mostly dry. The papers are reporting 61 deaths in San Salvador and 90+ country-wide due to the flooding, thanks for checking in on us.

We went to the Marine Corps birthday ball last night, a black tie event that takes place around the world and drew about 300 people.

We got dressed up! And took a self-portrait!

We have sliding glass doors all around the apartment, and no screens.  Mostly this is lovely for breezes and great views.  Sometimes, visitors enter.  One day a bird, last Friday night -- MOTHRA!!  This guy is about 4 inches across, and when Mark shooed him out of the apartment, he looked like a bat!

Click on the photo to see the beauty.  And hugeness.

Wednesday is Veteran's Day, the embassy is closed, and we are getting screens installed that day. Whew!  Just in time for my scaredy-cat bug phobia, I've just about had it with birds and bugs and mothra in the apt...

Weekend in Antigua, Guatemala

We took our first driving road trip this past weekend, to Antigua, Guatemala with our friends Woody and Gussie and their 3 great kids. A truly nice family to hang out with in a foreign city.

The Woody and Gussie Show

Two cars, walkie talkies, many adventures later,  we arrived safely, and in time to have dinner at the coolest place in town - the Convento de Santo Domingo.  In a massive thunderous storm, in a spooky dark monastery, unheated, scary, glass coffins with skeletons inside (catacombs but - not.) --- a perfect way to spend Halloween night! If you are interested, here it is: Casa Santo Domingo

But enough about luxury hotels.  The next day was Sunday, Nov. 1, Dia de los dead souls, and we drove  up to a small town called Sumpango.  WOW.  Were we lucky to discover this amazing, spectacular place the one day of the year they show off their kites which are 5 stories high.

It is too beautiful to describe.  Take a look. Click on any picture and it will fill your screen - try it, you will not be disappointed!

The crowd and the kites from afar.

 Close up of my favorite. Isn't it just amazing? The theme is - protect the identity of the country.

But here are some more!

 

 The above is all about domestic violence.

 This one, above, is about saving Mother Earth.

 

Some of the lovely Guatemalans who attended the Sumpango Fair.  We were so fortunate to make it there, the one day this event happens!

 

Simply awesome, in the truest sense of the word. The kites are meant to communicate with the dead.  They used to fly these monsters but these days they are erected and gaped at by people from all over Guatemala. Including campesinos in their Sunday best - a beautiful sight in itself.

It was a unique and memorable event.

Antigua was charming and lovely.  Touristy but wonderful.  Our trip home was eventful in all the worst ways.  A few wrong turns in Guatemala City, fog, storms, and a fallen tree which stopped traffic in both directions for about an hour and a half.  We got back well after dark, which was not our plan at all. Next time, we will make sure that it doesn't rain and a tree doesn't block our path.

Love from Mark and Kathleen

Sunday afternoon in El Salvador

This past Sunday we visited a spectacular place only 35 minutes outside the city.  A gorgeous rustic restaurant with views of the volcanoes, and the fog rolling over the hills, flowers, birds.  It was a birthday party for some new friends, Lori and Pedro.  Live music, charming people - a great way to spend an afternoon.  El Mirador de la Giralda. http://www.elmiradordelagiralda.com/

Mark has been working hard with back to back meetings out of town, so it was good to have a relaxing afternoon.

Here's Lori and Pedro, and their friends.

Road Trip 2

Mark: We're visiting Tapachula, Chiapas, Mexico for my job this week and learning some interesting things about border crossings.  Check out the rafts on the river going between Guatemala and Mexico as seen from the official point of entry.

Kathleen: Chiapas is far more urban and populated than I expected, I think because it is a border state.  Mark's conference is interesting because they were so comfortable admitting that they have casual informal border crossings with Guatemala that have been in place for generations.  So trying to force people to use the official border bridge, and to stop rafting across when they've been doing it for generations....not so much.  Rustic hotel, lovely downpours every night, Mexican food including spice and flavor - can't ask for much more in life.  I looked for signs of Zapatista involvement, but saw nothing but what I see all over Mexico - lovely people living in crushing poverty.

View From Our Balcony

click on photo

Earthquake!

Mark: very exciting, our first "noticable" terremoto last night; woke us both up, we looked at each other and said "earthquake" in unison. Lasted about 10 seconds, our big 'ol bed shakin' to beat the band. It was reported on the news and in the local papers but apparently not a big deal since the city's been clobbered with really big ones three times in 25 years. Still... follow the link below for further on earthquakes and some El Salvador-specific data. http://nasadaacs.eos.nasa.gov/articles/2006/2006_hotspots.html

A clean towel, mushrooms, and Perro Dos

We make progress each day, and we take a few steps back every day, too. Our brand new washing machine violently wanders across the floor, and probably makes the neighbors hate us. So we got that going for us. Tonight, we decided to brave it anyway, but had to stop it mid spin, and dry the towels for a good long while. End result -- clean towels! Forward progress!! Also, cooking has occurred, so we are finally getting back into our routine of healthy breakfasts and lunches, and apps prior to dinner. One of my favorite foods, mushrooms, (Michelle, groan here) are just terrible here - like they're two weeks old when they hit the shelf. I am sensing a business opportunity. But it might mean working in the dark. With fungus and dung.

Enough of the menos mal.* We live near a lovely yoga place, YogaShala, and this evening took a class together from the lovely Lianik. It felt so -- normal -- to take a yoga class, and we were both very happy with the lovely Lianik. And, to top it off - what a cool way to keep learning our Spanish, and to learn all the body parts! They call downward dog Perro dos. Muy graciosa.

It then felt so -- abnormal -- to try to cross the four lane street we have to cross to get to and from yoga. The pedestrian experience here is truly a nailbiter. It's one of the many reasons that nobody ever walks anywhere. In fact, it is so rare, that when I walked into the yoga class yesterday for the first time, the owner pronounced to everyone "Que Rico! She was walking with her yoga mat down the street. How amazing!!!"

Yup, it is amazing.

We will post some more pics soon. Promise.

** menos mal - 'less bad'

Finally, A Home!

Mark: Greetings All! We're blogging from our apartment, the 4th floor of Condominio Quetzaltepec, our home and refuge for the remainder of out tour. It took longer than we expected (kind of a lot longer!) but we've been spending the Columbus Day weekend making it feel like home. We've bought plants & groceries, we're putting stuff up on the walls, and we're deciding which towels go in what bathroom (there are five, OMG). The apartment is 3 bedrooms + den + maids quarters and so much storge that no place else will ever seem adequate and we've got cable, high speed wireless internet and Skype!

Its been a slow start but we finally feel like we're getting in gear; there're a couple regional trips in the offing (Belize, Chiapas & Costa Rica) and it won't be long before we feel comfortable guiding others throughout the region. More pix and stories to follow, stay tuned.

Kathleen here : Feel free to call us! We each have cell phones (see right) and would love to hear from all of you!

Sunday in San Salvador

MARK: This week was a roller coaster for us and we're both exhilerated and dizzy from the ride. We found a realtor (Vanessa) whose upbeat attitude and seemingly endless connections quickly allayed our fears of being pushed into a dour, lifeless house by the embassy. Vanessa showed us a fantastic apartment that we fell in love with in a lively active neighborhood called Escalone; filled with shops and restaurants its everything we could hope for.


Friday night we attended a benefit dinner for the local children's hospital (Hospital Bloom) and danced the night away to a wonderful latino band; our new friend Dan Gilbride was the catalyst for both our social foray through his volunteer work with the hospital and our housing solution as he introduced us to Vanessa. We're very fortunate to have met him and hope we can return the favors some day soon.



Today we're lounging around; we had a great breakfast at Shaw's, a lovely chain bakery/restaurant, and will be heading to the gym in a little while. Then off to an orchid show (!) and maybe visit Kevin and Elizabeth at their new house.



Kathleen has been Skyping this morning and we're both still awed by how well it works, particularly the video. That's it for now

Our First Road Trip

MARK: "Yesterday we made our first foray into the wilds of El Salvadoran traffic and tourist destinations. Not kidding even a little bit about wild traffic - one must adopt an "all hazards" approach to the rules of the road to avoid colliding with the cars, busses, cattle, pedestrians, 3-wheeled moto-rickshaws and small barnyard critters that make up the traffic population en route to Suchitoto, El Salvador.



The white knuckle ride into the mountains was totally worth it (in a borrowed Jeep which is a story for a seperate post) as we met the poet laureate of El Salvador Alejandro Cotto who plays tour guide in his amazing home cum museum. We walked around with another couple, Lori and Pedro from Washington, DC marvelling alternately at the view and his collected treasures from his fantastic life and times.

I'm again struck by the grinding poverty juxtaposed against the physical beauty of this place. NEXT POST: Kathleen's gonna write about the new friends from Florida and their brilliant violinist son.
Adios

Bienvenidos El Salvador

Mark: Well we arrived without incident except Kathleen nearly needed to be Heimliched over a twizzler. A two hour delay in Miami didn't dampen our spirits and the embassy motor pool driver was delightful. Today we got up late, drifted around our hotel and went to a mixer for newbies at the embassy pool where we met some interesting foreign service colleagues. We'll post some pix soon.

Kathleen: too pooped to write tonight.

Juntos: we're both VERY excited to be here!