Kathleen: Chiapas is far more urban and populated than I expected, I think because it is a border state. Mark's conference is interesting because they were so comfortable admitting that they have casual informal border crossings with Guatemala that have been in place for generations. So trying to force people to use the official border bridge, and to stop rafting across when they've been doing it for generations....not so much. Rustic hotel, lovely downpours every night, Mexican food including spice and flavor - can't ask for much more in life. I looked for signs of Zapatista involvement, but saw nothing but what I see all over Mexico - lovely people living in crushing poverty.


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